The Castleton Weekend We'd Recommend To Friends
- Jen Bell I Editor I Good Life List Peak District
- May 2
- 7 min read
Updated: Jun 10
Castleton is one of those places you just have to accept is going to be busy.
It’s popular for a reason. The setting is different from the rest of the Peak District. Crags rising straight out of the village, caves running underneath it, Mam Tor and the ridge sitting just above. It feels more dramatic than most places around here.
We tend to go outside school holidays if we can, but even when it’s busy, we still have a wonderful time. We’ve never struggled to book a cave, find a table for coffee or get parked. You might do a lap or two, but you’ll get there.
Summer suits it best. It can feel cold and exposed at other times of year, but on a warm day it's unbeatable.
This is how we’d spend 48 hours here.
Day One - Friday Afternoon
Arrive mid-afternoon and head straight into the village.
Castleton is compact. You can be parked and walking within minutes.
Start with coffee (or a different hot drink, you'll find everything here).
Castleton Coffee Co is our pick of the bunch. Expertly made coffee, the most delicious cakes, and somewhere you’ll likely return to more than once over the weekend. You can find the menu here.
From there, it's fun to wander the main street. It’s busy and a bit chaotic at times (and be careful crossing the road, the drivers always tend to be slightly manic!), but that’s part of it.
Blue John jewellery, small quirky shops, cafés, walkers, families, ice cream galore. You’ll get a feel for the place quickly.
Do the caves (do not skip this!)
If there’s one thing you should do here, it’s go underground.
Peak Cavern
Speedwell Cavern
Blue John Cavern
Treak Cliff Cavern
Some are guided, some partly self-guided.
It’s what makes Castleton stand out. You’re not just walking over the landscape, you’re going under it.
If you have to choose one, go with Speedwell as it’s the most memorable of the lot.
You descend underground and travel by boat through a flooded mine tunnel before emerging into a vast chamber known as the Bottomless Pit. It’s unusual, atmospheric and completely different from anything else in the Peak District.
If you can, book a Friday afternoon slot and get it done early (and come back another time to tick off the others).
Late afternoon: stretch your legs
Head out for a short walk after.
Cave Dale is the easiest place to start. Within minutes you’re in a limestone valley with Peveril Castle above you.
It’s a good contrast to the village and shows how quickly everything opens out.
You can keep it short or carry on towards the much-photographed, dramatic Winnats Pass.
Peveril Castle (a quick one)
It is worth going up.
We’ll be honest though. £8.50 per adult feels a bit steep for how small it is. You can walk around it in minutes. The trek up and down can also be a bit of a pain if you have kids with you as its very steep (we're still recovering from the last time, we definitely earned our ice-cream...)
The views are stunning and it all goes towards upkeep. If you’ve got English Heritage, it’s an easy yes as you won't have to pay.
If not, you’ll still get a lot from seeing it from below or from Cave Dale.
Dinner
Castleton has a lot of pubs. Five in a small village.
They’re busy, friendly, steeped in history (most seem to be 17th century) and there's not an awful lot between them when it comes to food. Think burgers, pies, and classics like sausage and mash, scampi and gammon and chips. All generously served.
The Bull’s Head is a good summer option for outdoor seating
The George sits just below the castle and feels slightly removed from the main road
Ye Olde Nags Head and Cheshire Cheese stay open later
It’s worth knowing that many of the pubs also have rooms, so you can eat, drink and stay in one place.
Peak Hotel, proudly marketed as the Peak District's eccentric ale house, sits right in the middle of the village and does all of this well. It’s well reviewed for its staff, food and atmosphere and has the most gorgeous four poster beds in the ensuite rooms.
You can go there just for a drink or dinner if you’re not staying. We're slightly in love with the Devil’s Arse steak burger at Peak (loaded with BBQ pulled pork, jalapeños, chilli jam and melted chilli cheese). Yes, we chose it for the name and yes, we're glad we did. Yum. The chef's homemade pie of the week is usually a winner too.
If you want something more sophisticated on the food side, go slightly further out.
The Blind Bull (about 15 minutes away) is Britain's fifth oldest pub and well worth the trip. Less suitable for the kids as the menu is quite grown up. Less pub grub, more beautifully constructed dishes like the hand-dived Orkney scallop, paired with vibrant watercress pesto, crisp radish, and finished with peanut and lime, which is currently on the menu.
Where to stay
There are plenty of holiday cottages in the village. You're spoiled for choice really.
Hope View House, on the outskirts of the village caught our eye recently as it is a good size (three bedrooms, three bathrooms), is pet-friendly and has plenty of comfortable spaces to relax in. It is also only a six minute walk to Peak Cavern, one of the largest and most popular caves. Plus, it is absolutely beautiful with the most gorgeous views from the garden.
Many of the pubs also offer rooms, which work well if you want everything on your doorstep.
If you want something more polished, stay just outside.
Losehill House in Hope is our absolute favourite. Lovely rooms, peaceful location, and the only full service spa in the national park, complete with indoor heated swimming pool, sauna and hot tub.
The food at Losehill is some of the best you'll find (we're still dreaming of the courgette, lemon and pea risotto) and the fine-dining restaurant also has the best views in the national park in our opinion with panoramic views of Hope Valley and Win Hill on three sides.
Day Two - Saturday
Morning: Mam Tor and the ridge
You can’t come to Castleton and not walk up Mam Tor.
It’s iconic and the views are worth it.
If you can, go early for sunrise or later for sunset. It’s an experience either way.
You won’t be alone, but that’s part of it. If you're there outside of peak holiday times, it won't be that bad - otherwise, the path can be a bit like the M25 (though always seems to be plenty of room for everyone at the top).
If you want a bit more space, don’t just go up and back down. Carry on along the ridge towards Lose Hill. Most people turn around at Mam Tor, so it thins out quite quickly.
Winnats Pass
Head down or across to Winnats Pass.
A steep limestone gorge with views back towards the village and Mam Tor.
You don’t need long here. Even just walking part of it or stopping at the top viewpoint is enough.
Lunch
Keep this flexible and browse a few menus, see what tickles your fancy.
Castleton is full of cafés. We love:
Three Roofs
Tilly’s
Blueberry Café
Peveril Stores (good for something to take away)
Or go back to Castleton Coffee Co.
You don’t need to plan this too rigidly. You’ll find something.
Afternoon options
Cycle to Hathersage
A good way to change pace.
The route between Castleton and Hathersage is around 5.5 miles each way and mostly flat. It follows the main road but has dedicated bike lanes for much of it.
Hathersage gives you more choice for food and a slightly different feel.
If you want to push yourself, the hills at either end will do it!
Wild swim and picnic
Near the Hope side of the village, you’ll find Peakshole Water.
Follow the path and you’ll reach a deeper section of the stream with grassy space nearby. It works well for a short dip and a picnic.
There are no bins or facilities, so take everything home with you.
Shopping
Many of the shops focus on Blue John stone, which is unique to this area.
ASD Jewellery and Blue John Gems are the most established
The Old Apothecary Shop is a newer addition for fragrances and bath products
The Stones area (near the bridge by Peak Cavern) has a cluster of smaller independent shops worth a look
There are also a couple of outdoor shops if you need anything for walking.
Evening
Stay in the village or head out again.
If you didn’t go the night before, this is a good time for:
The Blind Bull
Losehill House
Or just settle into one of the pubs and enjoy the atmosphere.
Day Three - Sunday
Keep this part simple.
Start with coffee. You’ll probably end up back at Castleton Coffee Co.
Take one last walk. Cave Dale works again, or a shorter loop out towards Winnats if you didn’t do it properly the day before.
Pick up something from Peveril Stores or one of the cafés for the journey home.
Getting there (quick notes)
Train: Hope station (then a short bus or walk)
Bus: Direct routes from Sheffield and Bakewell
Car: Several car parks, plus some free spots further out if you’re happy to walk in
Castleton isn’t trying to be quiet or undiscovered.
It’s busy, lively and built around visitors.
But it works and we always love our visits here. Out of all the destinations in the Peak District, I think we have photographed this one the most, which tells you something.
Come in summer, accept the crowds, and experience one of the most unique sides to the Peak District. You'll be planning your return visit before you've even emerged from your first cave tour.
If you're travelling elsewhere in the national park, after your trip to Castleton, check out our guide to a long weekend in the Peak District for even more tips.
