Packhorse Inn, Little Longstone: Lost at Uno. Won at Dinner - Restaurant Review
- Jen Bell I Editor I Good Life List Peak District
- 18 hours ago
- 6 min read
The Packhorse Inn, Main St, Little Longstone, Bakewell DE45 1NN, (01629 640471). Starters £4-£9, mains £18-£26, desserts £8.50-£9 (£13 for the cheeseboard). Cask ales include Black Sheep and local favourites from Thornbridge Brewery in Bakewell. Wine from £6.95 a glass.
For years I've had a romantic vision of family life in the Peak District that involved walking to the pub. Not driving to the pub. Not bundling children into the car and playing rock, paper, scissors to decide the designated driver this time. Actually walking there, through fields and over stiles, before settling down for a glass of something cold and a decent meal.
Until now, with two small children and little legs that tire quickly, we just haven't been able to do it. But, thankfully, this year they seem to have reached an age where it is finally possible and Reader, I am over the moon!
So on Father's Day, which also happened to fall on the longest day of the year, and was the kind of gloriously warm, sunny day we've been dreaming about since February, we headed across the meadows to Little Longstone for dinner at the Packhorse Inn.
The walk itself felt like part of the occasion. We wandered through little wooden gates, over stiles and alongside sheep whose lambs now look less like tiny spring bundles, more like actual sheep. The boys raced ahead, occasionally stopping to pick a flower or laugh at a cowpat. We followed behind at a slower pace, enjoying the novelty of not being in a rush.
The Packhorse appeared exactly as it always does, looking as though it has been waiting there for several hundred years specifically for thirsty walkers to arrive.
It is, to my mind, one of the most attractive pubs in the Peak District. Ivy tumbles across the stone frontage. Hanging baskets spill flowers down the walls. A small wooden door sits slightly crookedly beneath a sign welcoming dogs, muddy boots and children. If somebody asked me to draw a Peak District pub from memory, I'd probably end up sketching something very similar.
Inside, it's even better.
The Packhorse has that particular smell that only old pubs seem to possess. I cannot tell you exactly what creates it. Perhaps it's decades of open fires, ale, wooden beams, ancient floorboards and Sunday roasts. Whatever it is, it's comforting, delicious and I love it.
Our boys immediately began searching for the mounted boar's head they always remember from previous visits. I spotted the familiar collection of old photographs, interesting trinkets and assorted curiosities that seem to occupy every available shelf. This time we were seated in the dining room beyond the bar, beside a taxidermy squirrel that our youngest declared "cute". I disagreed but decided not to argue.
Out of the window I could see a Fell pony grazing in the field opposite.
At this point, I was already having a lovely time and we hadn't even ordered.
The service deserves special mention because it was excellent from the moment we arrived. I didn't catch our server's name, which is a shame because she couldn't have been more helpful. Drinks arrived almost immediately, specials were explained properly and, perhaps most importantly, she asked if we were ready to order once the drinks landed rather than disappearing and leaving us wondering when we might next catch somebody's eye.
She also asked if we'd like the boys' mains brought out with our starters.
Parents everywhere will understand why this was one of the highlights of the evening.
Meanwhile my husband and I both ordered the Korean BBQ chicken tacos with lime sour cream and Asian slaw (£9). We do this quite often. After nearly 22 years together our food choices have become a bit similar and we've stopped pretending otherwise.
The tacos were superb. Properly messy, as all good tacos should be, with juicy chicken, crunchy shells, fresh slaw and enough spice to make things interesting without requiring medical assistance. They demanded a two-handed approach and complete commitment. Miraculously, I emerged without any landing on my dress, something my husband appeared almost more impressed by than the food itself judging by the number of suspicious glances he sent across the table.
I paired mine with a large glass of beautifully chilled New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from a concise but well-chosen wine list supplied by Hattersley Wines in Bakewell. My husband opted for one of Thornbridge's pale ales instead. The Packhorse is a proper pub in every sense of the word, with a strong selection of cask ales and local beers alongside the wine list. Black Sheep remains a regular fixture and Thornbridge beers feel entirely appropriate given you're only a few miles from Bakewell.
While we waited for our mains we somehow managed two full games of Uno.
We lost both.
To our children.
The humiliation was complete.
My husband had been eyeing up one of the specials and thanks to our attentive server secured the final portion of lamb porchetta before it disappeared. There is something about hearing there is only one portion left that makes everybody want it more. We did feel a tiny pang of guilt when a neighbouring table attempted to order the same dish moments later, only to discover it had already been claimed.
I chose the marinated bavette steak with tenderstem broccoli, garlic wilted spinach, house fries and chimichurri (£26), and the moment it arrived I knew I'd made the right decision.
The steak was cooked exactly as requested. Medium rare, beautifully rested and packed with flavour. Bavette can be one of the most rewarding cuts when treated properly and this was a very good example. Every mouthful was tender, deeply savoury and thoroughly enjoyable. The chimichurri added freshness and brightness without overwhelming the meat, while the broccoli and garlicky spinach helped offset the glorious excess of the fries, which were hot, crunchy and extremely moreish.
I also made enthusiastic use of the little pot of mayonnaise provided alongside them.
My husband's lamb porchetta disappeared at a similarly impressive pace. The Derbyshire lamb was beautifully cooked and paired with orzo in a dish that managed to feel both hearty and surprisingly summery. Every time I looked across the table he seemed very pleased with himself.
The boys both chose burgers from the children's menu. One wanted no cheese. The other wanted no cheese and no bun. The kitchen accommodated both requests without batting an eyelid.
Our eldest declared his burger "the best burger ever", which is probably the highest culinary honour available from an eight-year-old. I stole a bite from the younger one's plate and have to admit it was very good indeed. Great quality beef, cooked properly and seasoned thoughtfully for younger palates. There was none of the bland, freezer-to-fryer children's menu feeling that you sometimes encounter elsewhere.
At this point I absolutely did not need dessert.
Naturally, I ordered one anyway.
The lemon and elderflower polenta cake (£9) arrived topped with blackcurrant sorbet and was every bit as good as it sounded. The cake was wonderfully moist while still feeling light, with the elderflower bringing a gentle floral note rather than dominating proceedings. The blackcurrant sorbet provided just enough sharpness to stop things becoming overly sweet.
I also sampled some of my son's Bakewell pudding with custard (£8.50), which was exactly what you hope a Bakewell pudding will be. Warm and buttery - true comfort food.
By the end of the meal we'd worked our way through two starters, four mains, four desserts, two large glasses of wine, two juices and two pints. The bill came to £168.
Given the quality of the food, the service and the setting, I thought that represented excellent value. You're lucky to get a family meal of that size under £200 these days and while nobody enjoys paying more than they used to, the reality is that food, staffing and operating costs have risen dramatically. When somewhere delivers this level of quality and hospitality, I'm happy to support it.
As we walked back across the fields with the sun beginning to dip behind the hills, everyone pleasantly full and the boys still chatting away, I found myself thinking that evenings like this are exactly why we moved to the Peak District.
A beautiful walk. A gorgeous old pub. Friendly service. Excellent food. Local beer. A pony in a field outside the window.
Honestly, what more could you ask for?
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